The Dales 30 are mountains over 2,000 feet (610 m) with a 30 metre (98.4 ft) drop on all sides, defined in official mountain terminology as Hewitts.
I liked the criteria because the 2,000 ft height determines to me the difference between hill and mountain whilst a minimum 100 ft drop equated to 30 mountains and a suitable challenge. The geographic area is defined by the new boundary of the Yorkshire Dales National Park (as of 2016). However, many of the mountains are in Cumbria or Lancashire so I have referred to the area as ‘The Dales’.
The Dales is a wonderful area to walk but, away from the 3 Peaks of Yorkshire, nobody talks about the hills and mountains of the area. There are lovely riverside walks, walks that take in the history of the area and walks that take in the wonderful rolling landscape and many guide books describing them.
However there is very little about the mountains; in fact very few people know anything about them at all. You have to be in a the midst of a fairly selective group to enter a conversation about the merits of Rogan’s Seat over Gragareth!

Of course many do know and talk about the 3 Peaks of Yorkshire challenge. On any given Saturday from April to September the slopes of Pen y Ghent, Ingleborough and Whernside are crowded places. However the people embarking on this 3 Peak challenge are, in many (possibly most) cases, interested only in the completion of all 3 rather than appreciating the scenery and the joys of the area. I have guided walkers round the 3 Peaks who have no idea where they are, not even aware they are in the Dales. They won’t come back.
The Dales 30 provides a completely different sort of challenge. A more leisurely challenge, one that can be done at one’s own pace, involve multiple visits, can be done at any time of the year (and should be) and one that covers most of the area. It brings with it a full appreciation of the Dales. The 30 mountains all display different characteristics, have different approaches and involve different challenges.
Much of this is down to the underlying bedrock; the carboniferous limestone to the south and west of the area coupled with the thin soils bringing a rockier landscape whilst further north the shale and sandstone offering a smoother profile, deeper soils and a peat and heather clad moorland. Just contrast Pen y Ghent with Yockenthwaite Moor.
Travelling at different times of the year certainly adds to the enjoyment of the challenge. Buckden Pike in the snow is a very different proposition to a leisurely amble on a long summer’s day. It brings a sense of adventure and excitement that still brings me a thrill and at times a real burst of adrenalin. Between the two lie the wonderful colours of autumn and the pretty flowers, lambs and freshness that a bright spring day can bring.
The Dales 30 will take you to most of the corners of the Dales and to places you may not otherwise visit. The villages and buildings of the area are one of its greatest attractions. The Dales 30 will bring you to the lesser spotted Dent, the book town of Sedbergh, exquisite Upper Swaledale, underrated Kirkby Stephen as well as the more popular villages in Upper Wharfedale, Ribblesdale and the queen of market towns, Hawes. Planning a weekend away in for example Keld, climbing a couple of mountains and enjoying the evening in a traditional Dales pub surely ranks right up there with top weekend breaks in the world.
A day on Yarlside was typical. A late summer’s day, warm hazy weather, a hill I had not climbed and a route I was not too sure of. Just what I like. For 1/2 an hour I enjoyed a leisurely stroll along the valley with the waterfall at Cautley Spout offering a spectacular backdrop. A steep climb had me sweating on Yarlside before a gently wind cooled me as the slope flattened. For the next 3/4 an hour the going was perfect, easy going on short, soft grass as I followed the undulating ridge to Randygill Top. From here I sat and worked out an unusual route down, enjoying virgin territory near Wandale Fell. I picked my way through sheep, farms and a quiet beck before emerging again at Cross Keys Inn. I was happy to finish the walk with a pot of tea in this fascinating inn. Perfect.
Scotland has the Munros, the Lake District has the Wainwrights, let’s hope the Dales 30 become as well known.
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